Last night we had a taste-off between two red Burgundies from leading producers of the Côte Chalonnaise to go with our first rate Coq-au-Vin. The wines in question were Domaine François Lumpp's Givry Premier Cru Crausot 2007 and Domaine François Raquillet's Mercurey Premier Cru Les Combins 2006.
François 1's Givry (€18, bought from producer) was immediately very appealing. Lots of crunchy red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, red cherry) with an unmistakable Pinot Noir elegance, a modicum of well-handled oak and a persistent finish. Not overly complex, but really lovely. It's quite young, but I'm not convinced it's got anywhere better to go in the future; it's delicious as it is and keeping it would probably compromise the appeal of the fruit.
As you would expect, being a year older, François 2's Mercurey (€15, also bought from producer) had more secondary development going on, with aromas of undergrowth and mulchy leaves to go with the fruit. Though perhaps pipping it on the nose, it was clearly lighter on the palette than the Givry.
It was marginal; both were really good examples of their kind, which is immediately appealing fresh Burgundy, as opposed to more heavy-weight wines from the Côtes-d'Or, which require longer ageing and are considerably more expensive. The Givry just took it; I'm very glad I've got five more bottles to drink in the near future.